La Maison Arabe
The hotel that started the riad-hotel trend back in 1998. The 26 rooms have fireplaces and private terraces, and you can wander down to the courtyard and find a quiet nook to read in. The tranquil pool is a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle of the medina, which is pretty much on the doorstep.
If ever a city was primed to be discovered, it was this. Hidden doorways, maze like souks, the Old Medina – you can lose yourself here in the best way possible. Haggle for souvenirs at the market stalls, then relax in a hammam or over a cup of mint tea in a café. Some of the architecture – such as that of the Koutoubia Mosque – is truly magical. Exploring the main square, Djeema el Fna, is best done in the evenings, when the snake charmers, musicians and jugglers are in full force.